DTS:X & Dolby Atmos NOT READY

Last year I was looking to purchase a receiver that supported 4k and either 5.2 or 7.1 surround sound with DTS:X & Dolby Atmos which is both new surround sound that is being used on movies that are on 4k Blurays.

Issue I found was either one would only have Dolby Atmos but no DTS:X or the opposite.
Just could not find one that supported both DTS:X & Dolby Atmos with 4 k support.
Today this is easy to find now receivers are built with both and last generation DTSHD and Dolby True.

What I failed to look into was what the requirements were to optimize these new surround sound codecs.
Now there are ceiling speakers not hang on the wall these are to be mounted in/on the ceiling.
And depending on size and even sound you want you can have either 2 or 4 ceiling speakers on top of the 5.1 or 7.1 speakers you already have setup.
So now it’s 5.1.2 or 5.1.4 or 7.1.2 or 7.1.4.

This may sound fantastic but I am not ready to be cutting speaker holes in my ceiling.

Hopefully as time passes there will be newer speaker options for the ceiling that does not require cutting holes.
Or are very small but have big sound, This way cutting holes in ceiling will be easy to patch up when you either move or decide to move the living room around.
Until then I’m going to be taking a pass on the new sound options and or buying a new  receiver.
That is the biggest issue with surround setups once you set up you are pretty much stuck with your TV & couch placement for quite some time.

Will be trying first 4k Bluray. Where 3d go?

Put in an order for only 2 UHD Blurays.
The Revenant & Deadpool both movies are different in every way.
Went ahead and purchased the Samsung UBD-K8500 4k Bluray player.
Got a great deal on it paid maybe $30 more than what you pay for a new standard 1080p Bluray player.
And will still play standard Blurays & 3d Blurays along with DVD’s. I only have maybe 10 DVD’s I have kept. They are Music/concerts and some rare horror films that were never released to Bluray.

Reason for Deadpool purchase is because Deadpool is awesome and I understand that the colors in this movie are excellent in 4k listed at #4 in top 4k Blurays to watch.
This movie was originally filmed in 2k so the movies transfer to 4k is an upconversion but they say it’s one of the best.

The Revenant This movie is very good and the interest in this is the filming of outdoors more earth like colors and has fast moving action as well. Was a toss up between this and the movie Lucy which was transfer sourced from a 4K digital intermediate another true 4k transfer but I didn’t like Lucy as much as The Revenant.
This Revenant was originally shot digitally at resolutions of up to 6.5K so this movie has plenty of room to play and is True 4K.
Very interested to see how this one turns out this was listed at #8 on the Best 4k Blurays to own or watch.

On to 3d movies the word being spoken at events like CES and others claimed that with the arrival of 4k that 3d was dead and would not be releasing any 4k movies in 3d.
Pretty disappointing for owners of UHD 3d televisions? Not really 3d is still fun sometimes and 1080p still looks fanfuckingtastic!
We have owned a few 3D TV’s and our latest TV has us back in 3d again and we still like it here and there but it’s not something you can watch all the time.
Active glasses will put you to sleep and make no mistake so does passive. Passive is better than active that way but it still exists in both technologies.

Back in 2015 info was leaked regarding 4k 3d on Bluray format.
The Blu-ray Disc Association finalized specs for the new line of 4k Bluray discs the specs say won’t be designed to transfer 3D in UHD resolution.
What they decided was to instead concentrate on 4k  media  will support much wider color gamuts , 10-bit color depth and some other features intended for best possible 4k experience.

This may seem like a bummer on the 3d side but I can see why they want to concentrate on 4k.
It’s a good thing really 3d is still out there it’s just not going to be in 4k. Hopefully they will release 4K movies with a standard 1080p 3d movie included in the box for movies that offered 3d in theaters.

4k UltraHD & Netflix is it true UHD?

I have had the UltraHD Netflix package for over a year now and have never really said much about it mostly because it really is nothing to talk about.
It offers 4k movies and some also have HDR and Dolby Vision available.
1st issue is not many of the movies available were shot in true 4k which means your basically getting a upconverted 1080p image.

2nd issue is the movies are compressed to all hell because the network bandwidth needed to stream true 4k video with Surround sound would make most peoples network dump or just watch a movie that is constantly buffering.
These 2 issues are enough to give you an idea of what your getting.
Sure some movies really look better than their 1080 counterparts but it’s a few and far between that do so.

So is paying $2-$3 extra dollars a month for UltraHD content to your Netflix bill worth it?
I’d say for some yes but for most probably not.

So what is 4k UHD good for? UltraHD Blurays that is the only way you will see true 4k content and your TV must support HDR or Deep Color or the difference between 4k and 1080p is negligible.
If your HD TV does not support  HDR then Deep color is another option this is also a improvement but again not all early model 4k TV’s support HDR or Deep color.

Now you have stepped into another costly component the UltraHD Bluray player.
Right now the cheapest UltaHD BR player you will find is the Samsung UBD-K8500 it is the 1st 4k player and sells new at Walmart for $247.36 it has dropped in price it was originally $399.
Or you can do what I did and go to Ebay to find the best deal you can.
Found a used one with no remote control and not in original box for $130.
I use a Harmony touch screen Universal remote control so the lack of remote is not an issue for me.
I’m sure any decent universal remote can be programmed to work on the UltraHD BR player you don’t need a $200 universal remote to program it.

The Samsung UBD-K8500 has gotten very good reviews but of course it will there is no other competition really out there to compare it to.


Picked up the LG OLED55C6P “2016” Model. How is it?

Went to Best Buy this afternoon and did TV shopping this time I had my sights on a OLED television.
It is a bit ridiculous I just bought the LG 60UF7700 a bit over a year ago.
But I’ve wanted a OLED TV since the very 1st one I saw on display at HH Gregg
Issue was back then they were 1st generation models that had issues with image retention and only had about 30,000 hours life span. And had an issue with the color Blue burning out before the red or green and cost $10,000. And were only pushing 350 nits bright.
Fast forward to 2016 and the issues have been rectified with models that are 2016 & 2017
They now have lifespans of 100,000 hours which is  more than most LCD/LED’s are rated also fixed issue with the Blue color burning out and are now brighter than most LCD-LED televisions with the exception of Samsung & Sony’s ultra high end LCD/LED models.
And I was able to talk the sales person to sell me the 55C6P model for $1,839.99.
I wanted the flat panel model which is the B6P which was same price but did not offer 3d I figured I prefer the extra options and rather have 3d than not so curved model it was.
Watched Star Wars The Force Awakens on Bluray today and the picture quality is just amazing. I’ve owned some nice Televisions but this TV has a picture quality I have never seen before the colors are just awesome and blacks are black and whites are white.


So the TV is smaller by less than 4″ compared to the model I had.
Was it worth the loss absolutely I have never seen a TV with picture quality like this! It really is amazing and the 3d is the best I’ve ever seen it is passive set.
I have owned 2 3d TV’s prior one passive and one Active 3d and not one of them compare this TV has pop shit really comes out of the screen.
My Samsung Active 3d was 2nd best and the Vizio Passive behind that.
Without the stand it weighs only 29.1 lbs. The TV is almost thin as paper since it does not require back lighting like LCD/LED models.
Due to it being OLED each pixel is it’s own source so it has virtually zero refresh rate.
During high action fast moving scenes there is little to no tearing at all. Which helps improve picture quality greatly. I had a Philips TV that was 2ms and it also was a great performer was one of the best sets.

The thickest part is on the bottom where the mainboard and power supply are located.
It does 4k also supports HDR-10 and Dolby Vision HDR as well right now only Netflix has support for Dolby Vision that I know of but to get the UHD programs it brings your monthly Netflix bill up by $2-$3 a month.. And is a 10 bit panel.
This TV has the latest LG software WebOS 3.0.
It virtually has no response time so motion is great and is why I thing 3d looks so good on it. Can catch things that move quickly and be viewable to the watcher.
The component & composite inputs are different than I am used to they plug into a head phone type jack.
3 USB, 1 RF In (Antenna/Cable), 1 Composite In, 1 (shared with composite) Component In, 1 Ethernet, 1 Optical, 1 RS232C (Mini Jack)
The Cpu has been upgraded from previous years models it now sports an ARM cortex-A-53 4-core CPU. Which handles the WebOS3.0.

Normally I have buyers remorse after a purchase like this but it’s such an awesome television it’s hard to be sad about it.

Update 03/07:   The first few generations of OLED did suffer from retention/burn-in.
I have did the 100 hours with settings at default and have now set colors and other advanced settings to calibrate. “Note: the TV already had 50 hours out of the box.”
My son has gamed and I spend a lot of time in Kodi menu’s updating and looking around for titles. Kodi has many static images very good to check burn-in factor on any TV.
As well as watching channels with logos and am happy to say I have not saw any retention what so ever.
Unlike my Plasma experience using a 15th gen panel. On the plasma I would get retention of the static logos from TNT after a short 15-30 minutes.
Also had a LCD panel that was susceptible to burn-in was a Sanyo model earlier model from 2005.
No TV’s are safe from burn-in as with the OLED panel if you abuse it and leave static images for long periods of time your going to see burn-in I don’t care if it’s a CRT,LCD or OLED.
The 2016 model I purchased was on display at Best Buy and yes it had terrible burn-in.
But keep in mind that Tv is a 2016 model I purchased it in 2017 so the model was on display showing the same image everyday over and over again for 11-12 hours a day 7 days a week for over 1 year.
Came out wrong I purchased the same model version NOT the display model it self.
I should of went into LG’s about settings. LG TV’s keep track of viewing hours and it can not be reset. Could of saw exactly how many hours the display TV had on it i’m willing to be over 10,000 hours. Next time I go in I am going to check it’s viewing time.
I did play with the store model panel and shut it down a few times and noticed as LG stated that the retention would go away. It did get better on each shut down I do believe that that TV was not permanently damaged. Would I of purchased the floor model NO.
But I am 100% comfortable in saying LG OLED’s latest generations are not easily susceptible to retention/burn-in.
I can not speak for Sony, Panasonic or Philips OLED televisions.

LG Televisions

I have been through a few different televisions in the last few years.
But this will be the last one for awhile this time.
The LG OLED televisions are just awesome!
The 2016 and up models have improved greatly over the previous generations.
For one they are as bright and brighter than most LED Televisions out and instead of only having 30,000 hour lifespan they now are over 100,000 hours that is higher than what most LCD/LED televisions are rated.
As far as Burn/in and I mage retention yes they can retain images but so can LED/LCD panels.
There has been rigorous testing and it seriously takes a whole lot of abuse to cause permanent burn in.

The picture quality of OLED is the best you can get!.”Period” Better than Plasma at it’s latest generation.
OLED does not have a back light like LED panels do the OLED’s individually light up which brings deepest blacks any tv can produce and very bright Whites. Which makes HDR really shine with Dolby HDR being supported in the 2016 models and HDR-10 it’s a no brainer to get a new OLED television if you are a TV/Movie buff like I am.

I love my LG UHD 60″ TV but it’s going to get sold to make up for this new purchase.

I do Not like curved TV’s but the curved model offer 3d and the standard flat does not and both are about the same price.
So curved it most likely will be.

Purchased the iPad 2nd or 3rd Generation

Which generation is not important to me. I actually can not stand Apple products iPhones and iPods were always shit in my opinion why? Well they all are tied into that POS application called iTunes. Every Android , Windows phone or other MP3 player of the time Creative for instance  you could use any app you wanted to or choose to not use one at all and just move files over music or video no applications needed at all.

My daughter brought home a iPad from school her 9th grade year. Was the 1st time I had used or even touched an iPad.
One thing that I liked was it’s size and weight much lighter than the Android Tablets at that time no less had a screen that seemed to be close or at least 10″.
Still completely disliked that again requires iTunes to move music and other files over to it what a joke!
But this was not a phone or a mp3 player. Sitting in the living room and surfing the nets on the iPad was actually quite a smooth experience. And the app store had some items that worked well with my needs in our Living room where the home theater is setup at.

Sure Apple store does suck for most things only because the apps they sell for $1.99 or more are absolutely free on Android devices. Not all apps are free but a lot more than you may think. If you are a die hard Apple only fan and never bothered with an Android device go ahead and ask a friend that has a Android based phone or tablet you will quickly see that it offers a lot of apps for free that Apple charges for on their iProducts.

But I liked using the iPad in living room so much so I purchased one recently right before Christmas 2016. I should say only paid $99 for it! Nope would never give Apple $500 of my money.
Then remembered wow! Everyone I know that has an Apple Phone or tablet have or had cracked screens.
So off to get a case for it this was easy went to Ebay grabbed one I liked for $14.99
Then read a bit and saw a few articles one  titled ” 5 Reasons You Don’t Need an iPad Case”
And it listed some points on why you should not get one.
Here are the points they made and after each of their thoughts are mine.

1-Cases add bulk and weight.
My thoughts : Yes it’s true some can add weight and bulk is it really that terrible? Or is this reason not to get a case because this person just wants everyone to see he has a iPAD?

2-Cases aren’t accessory friendly.
My thoughts: Who really uses any accessories on a damn tablet? Maybe use a Bluetooth ear piece or headset but a case can’t and does NOT interfere with Bluetooth frequency. Even if you use the plug in headset the cases have all the ports open to use. This point is mOoT!

3-Cases hide the beauty of iPad design.
My thoughts: Are you fucking kidding me? This is not a damn reason not to protect your iPad with a case.

4-Cases don’t offer 100% protection.
My thoughts: Neither do condoms but we still use them because some protection is better than none! Is this joker for real??!!

5-Cases can be expensive.
My thoughts: People spend $500+ on their new iPads a lousy $14.00 + on a case is hardly a set back to protect your investment.
How can this ass seriously write this crap he’ll spend $500 on an iPad but a case for $15 is waYYY to EXPENSIVE!
So now you know spending a few bucks for a case is a good idea.

LG 50″HDTV 50LN5400 No picture With sound repair

Last week went outside to see neighbor throwing away a 50″ LED/LCD Television that appeared to be in excellent shape.
After asking if it was okay to take and observing the TV it was basically like new “Manufactured late 2014” with exception that it did not get a picture when the TV was powered on.
It powered on fine and even had sound just no picture.
First thing you do is try to force start it.
This requires you to press buttons on the TV at same time which in this case was pressing both the ok & Power button at the same time for about 15 -30 seconds then power off TV and restart if all is well the TV will then power up with picture & sound.
Every TV is different some require the remote and the TV buttons to do the force power up.
Read manufacturers info to get this combo. Some don’t offer the force power up option I know Vizio televisions do not. Atleast the Vizio’s I’ve worked on don’t there may be some that do.
If nothing changes after force power up you will need to go right into the TV and start checking currents.

If it does power on with picture. Look at the picture is it dim in some areas are there lines or any discoloration?
How long does the TV stay on? watch these things it helps with troubleshooting the issue or issues.
After this unplug from the wall wait 15 minutes plug back in and power on TV should be no picture with sound again. Grab a flash light or cell phone flash light works just fine.
With TV on hit the menu button on TV remote or the menu button on the TV and flash the light on the screen. Do you see the TV’s menu when you flash the light on screen?
If you do chances are you have some backlights blown out if you don’t see the TV menu you may have a LED driver issue or a Timing issue. ” These are common issues and are not always the cause”

Backlight replacement requires a complete breakdown of the television and requires moderate skill to repair. Mostly due to the LCD panel being so delicate if you crack this the TV is no longer affordable or worth repairing. Even cracking a tiny edge off will render the panel useless.

The LED backlights can be purchased in strips or if you have the skill and tools you can individually repair each LED on the strip.
How many LED’s are in a TV depends on type and size. There is full array lighting which is where the LEDs are from top to bottom. Edge lit LED TV’s is when the LED’s are only around the edge of the television and the light disperses across the panel to illuminate the center of the LCD panel.
There is also CCFL back lighting this was used mostly before LED became the next thing.
CCFL= Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lighting. These can also be replaced. I actually prefer CCFL it’s much brighter and with the right technology blacks can be almost as good as LED based televisions.

This is the TV forced on here

I did not see anything wrong with picture at this point. ” Looking at the picture now I can see one of the LEDs out on the  R1 strip.”
After testing it appeared that the Timing board was the issue it wasn’t it also had a bad LED on Strip R1.
looks like it caught fire!
I did not buy this TV I also do not have the right heating tools to replace individual LEDs.
there are 2 strips in each row total of 12 strips.
1 Strip costs $14.95 plus shipping the TV is 100% apart 1 light is bad chances are more will follow may as well replace them all.
can get all 12 strips for $64.95 plus shipping @  https://www.shopjimmy.com/
First order and get the replacement LED strips. Then carefully pull up old LED strips.

The LED strips new in package.

I used a small thin pocket knife to go under the strips and slowly pry up the strips.
make sure to disconnect the 1st strip after loosening and continue down until you get to the LED power connector board carefully pry and remove.

Add the new lights and place the cover and the lock picks.

Once that is complete then add the panels that go between the LEDs and the LCD panel.
These panels must stay in order so make sure you remove them together and replace them all together.
After these panels are added then place the plastic edge that locks the covers in place this clips on no screws are on this bezel.
Once you lock the 1st bezel down you then place the LCD panel on and add the metal casing that locks the LCD panel in place this will have screws be very careful not to force them on if you even crack a small piece of the LCD panel it’s all over. May as well just scrap it for parts.
Wear plastic gloves when handling the LCD panel if you do not have these then use micro fiber towels to handle it. Once the LCD panel is locked in place you should clean the screen.
Always use water ton a microfiber cloth to clean the screen also a microfiber to dry.
If screen is really bad and from a smokers home like this one was you can use Screen Clean it is ammonia & alcohol free.
As you can see this needed the screen clean.
Was nicotine stained badly when I tried using just water it actually got worse.
Had to use the screen clean agent on this one. Keep in mind smoking in your home cuts a lot of life off of today electronics. They are much more sensitive than the TV’s from the 70s’ -90s’.

Now that the screen is cleaned it’s time to connect the panel back to the timing board and verify that the TV is working.
If it powers on then turn it off unplug and pop the last plastic bezel on front of TV. Flip it over make sure nothing is under TV that can crack the screen and verify speakers are plugged in as well as other wires are in place and taped down.
Left side board-Mainboard  Center brown board-LCD Driver & Power supply Top covered with metal plate -Timing control board.

Once all wires are verified put the back of TV on and screw down and lastly install the stand.

Turn on and enjoy your under $100  50″ HDTV:-)
First time on TV is at default picture values. Set at ECO.

The LG 50LN5400 is not a smart TV it’s just a standard 480i/p, 720p, 1080i/p 24hz/60hz with 120 Refresh.